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By Nawal Nasrallah: I was once asked to demonstrate an Iraqi dish for a group of middle-schoolers in Boston University’s Kids Program, “Cooking Up Culture” I made kebab rolled in flat leavened bread, garnished with onion relish, chopped parsley, and tomatoes. This traditional dish with its long history proved to be a hit with the kids. They asked for seconds and thirds.
To prepare a batch of Iraqi kebab enough for making six sandwiches, mix one pound of meat (traditionally a mixture of beef and fatty lamb) with one small grated onion, ¼ cup of flour or breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoon of salt, and ½ teaspoon of black pepper (optional: ¼ cup finely chopped parsley, and ¼ teaspoon each of allspice, ginger, and chili pepper, all ground). The fat particles melt and drip during grilling, leaving behind small cavities, which give kebab its characteristic light texture. Divide the mixture into 6 portions, and insert each into an inch-wide skewer (available at Middle-Eastern grocery shops). With moistened hands, press the meat until it is about 6 inches long; make dents by pressing between the thumb and index finger. Suspend the prepared skewers over a lighted brazier or a regular grill. In the case of the latter, keep them from touching the grill by setting them on crumbled foil at each end. Grill for about 10 minutes, turning to brown on both sides, and fanning most of the time to prevent the fire from flaring and burning the meat. Roll in flat bread with some chopped parsley, tomatoes, and thinly sliced onion sprinkled with sumac. Serve the sandwich with a refreshing drink of yogurt whisked with cold water and a pinch of salt. One last caveat, do not be tempted to overindulge, but follow the advice of the creators of this meal, our ancient ancestors, the Sumerians. “He who eats too much will not be able to sleep.”
